Do I look like I have a contractor's license, Fred??? :)  When it comes to crawl spaces, I'm all about encapsulating them to alleviate moisture issues over the long term... that being said my comment is based on my experience here where we have humidity in summer months. I don't know how crawl spaces are affected in mountain elevations. As for insulation, I'm all about whatever does the job best and that means talking to the professionals for me. But builders in my area have increasingly been using spray foam insulation and I like what they say about that.

I am with Ken Jones. A bit expensive upfront but worth it if you can afford it.

Two feet of blown in insulation added to the attic making sure the rafter buddy styrofoam fins keep the material off the soffit vents so they can ventilate. In Northern climates, you don't want your attic more than 5 degrees warmer than outside and is there a roof vent? 2" styrofoam around the foundation will help heat loss. Then it is on to the storm doors, weather strippiing, windows that are drafty to button up the place to make it easier to heat or cool. Sound deadening too.

Wind from mountain breezes can be drafty so make sure there is a wind break. What's the exterior sided with? Add an inch of technifoam under any new siding... it's been 24 years since whatever was originially wrapped the outside of this home. Lots of energy credits and subsidy checks to help the cost too Fred Griffin Tallahassee Real Estate !

I would probably say spray foam. Need to look at the attic space directions to protect you roof, from what I am reading. 

Depends how far you want to go.  R30 or higher in the attic would be the first step in my book.  If you're doing remodeling of the house too, then Home Depot has some amazing R30 (maybe higher) insulation that also has sound dampening material in it.  It's expensive, but worth it in my book.  I put that in my bathrooms when I redid them two years ago.  Wish I had opened up more walls so I could have put it in more places.

I've seen a lot of properties built on raised foundations, I've never seen insulation below the foundation.  Might be a California thing though.

Double pained windows are recommended as well, but a '96 house may have them already.

Hello Fred,  This is below my pay grade. Err - I mean above my paygrade. 

This is why I consult with professionals and gather all the information I can get to make an informed decision.  It looks like that is what you are doing here as well. 

I would insulate everywhere I was advised to insulate. Certainly the underneath, walls, and attic floor. Might want to install an air exchanger, too

Fred,

My construction savvy is limited.  I have had friends who used Spray Foam and swear it is the best.  Our weather differs from yours!  All the best to you. A

It is impossible to have totally moisture free framing elements in a house. When you spray foam onto these framing elements you trap that moisture between the wood and the foam and remove the ability for the structure to breathe.

Wood rot is inevitable unless the house can breathe and spray foam eliminates a house's ability to breathe. Also, do not wrap the inside of the house with plastic as it does the same thing.

The best solution for the crawl space is to not insulate the house floor but instead moisture proof and insulate the crawl space floor and walls and then vent the house into the crawl space.

Builders now are heating and cooling crawl spaces. Attic, fibreglass with maybe radiate heat barrier on top, and a solar powered attic exhaust fan.

Spray foam, top and bottom

If I had it to do over, I would use Icynene, Fred. It's a bit expensive but, you will not believe the improvement in your utility costs!

Jan Green can talk isolation with you!

spray foam you won't regret it.  I wish I could do the walls, but I did my attic and under the office and it cut the summer power bill by 1/3.  My next house will have it everywhere.

What I don't know about insulation would fill an encyclopedia.

I once had a client who was both a general contractor and roofing contractor and we once had a brief discussuion about it.

He said that, as a general rule, R-38 is the standard BUT that each state has its own minimum requirements so you might want to check on that. A good resource is the Department of Energy and they have some good info on their site.

https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation

Depends if house is exposed under the grade and how the sun hits the property...

The insulation should be fine unless you had a major leak or some other incident.